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Posted by bender 03/09/2009 @ 22:12

Tags : jewelry, fashion, entertainment, retailers, business

News headlines
Chinese jewelry maker Fuqi Q1 profit tops Street - Reuters
May 15 (Reuters) - Chinese jewelry maker Fuqi International Inc (FUQI.O) posted a better-than-expected quarterly profit, driven by higher gross profit margin, and raised its 2009 earnings forecast. For the first quarter, the company, whose design...
Thieves grab clothes, jewelry from Midtown boutique - Atlanta Journal Constitution
The thieves then smashed a glass jewelry case and took jewelry, jeans and shoes from display racks. Kogan, who opened the store in November, also owns an eModa store in Philadelphia. That store has been burglarized three times in six years, he said....
Bridal, jewelry boutique robbed - The Free Lance-Star
BY ELLEN BILTZ BY ELLEN BILTZ A Spotsylvania bridal and jewelry boutique was robbed yesterday, and the store's owner was held at gunpoint and tied up. Detectives are investigating the armed robbery that occurred about noon at Bazaar Y Joyeria,...
Alleged Jewelry Counterfeiter Arrested - Jewelers Circular Keystone Online
Artour Katanov, 40, has been arrested and been charged with selling “counterfeit” jewelry to jewelers and pawn shops, according to the Lincoln County News. Katanov is accused by police in Stamford, Connecticut, of selling stainless steel jewelry that...
Images released to catch jewelry thieves -
The suspects are wanted in several incidents at Beverly Hills jewelry stores. In one incident, a suspect distracted an employee at a jewelry store in the city, removed an $18000 ring from the display case, and walked out of the building on March 31....
$26000, jewelry taken by 2 men in home invasion - Buffalo News
Two men claiming to be gas company employees forced their way into a Schuele Street woman's home about 4 pm Thursday, pointed a gun at her and stole a large sum of cash and jewelry, Buffalo police report. In all, $26000 cash was taken from a bedroom...
Art in Review - New York Times
Missing from the floor are some of the high-end European dealers in African art, and the English textile dealers, but there is still the usual bounty of lavish textiles, sculpture and statuary, exotic curios and jewelry. An emphasis on extraordinary...
Minneapolis to hold jewelry exhibition - PRESS TV
The Minneapolis Institute of Arts is slated to hold a jewelry exhibition, presenting necklaces from different cultures around the world. Unspoken Messages: The Art of the Necklace will display ornamentations made with various materials, such as ivory,...
As costume jewelry's luster grows, an expert has advice for collectors - Denver Post
By Susan Carpenter Diamonds may be forever, and gold may make the ugly beautiful, but with precious stones and metals fetching ever higher prices, more and more women are turning to costume jewelry to add a splash of style to their wardrobes without...
$4000 worth of jewelry stolen in Vineland mobile home burglary -
by Sean C. mccullen, The News of Cumberland County VINELAND -- More than $4000 worth of jewelry was among the property reported stolen from a Cedar Crest mobile home burglarized sometime Tuesday morning or afternoon. The victim contacted police when...

Grill (jewelry)

A gold dental grill

In hip hop culture, a grill (also front or golds) is a type of jewelry worn over the teeth. Grills are made of metal and are generally removable. They began to be worn by hip hop artists in the early 1980s, but they became widely popular during the mid-2000s due to the rise of Dirty South rap. Though grills are fitted to the tooth impression of the wearer, whether they are safe for long-term wear is unknown.

Grills are made of metal (often silver, gold, or platinum) that is sometimes inlaid with precious stones; they are generally removable, though some may be permanently attached to the teeth. Grills can cost anywhere from fifty dollars to thousands of dollars, depending on the materials used and the number of teeth covered.

Grills are most often worn by 18- to 35-year-old urban male hip-hop listeners, and at least one commentator has argued that grills will never become mainstream. However, grills are worn by both men and women of all races, at least to some extent, as well as by celebrities far from hip-hop culture like Travis Barker of Blink-182.

Hip hop artists began wearing grills in the early 1980s; New Yorker Eddie Plein, owner of Eddie's Gold Teeth, is often credited with starting the trend. Plein made gold caps for Flava Flav, and then outfitted New York rappers including Big Daddy Kane and Kool G. Rap. He later moved to Atlanta, where he designed ever-more-elaborate grills for rappers like OutKast, Goodie Mob, Ludacris, and Lil Jon. Other writers have cited Slick Rick as an important early contributor to the popularity of grills.

Grills remained popular in the Southern U.S. even as they rose and fell from popularity elsewhere, and the rise of Dirty South rappers in the 2000s spurred a nationwide grill trend. During this time, grills frequently appeared in hip hop music, most notably in the 2005 number one single "Grillz," by Nelly, Paul Wall, Big Gipp, and Ali, and in other Paul Wall songs. Wall is known for his grill business as well as his rapping; his clients include Kanye West and Cam'ron.

Murray Forman, a professor specializing in popular music and hip-hop at Northeastern University, has suggested that grills, like other bling jewelry, symbolize monetary success, which is especially important for the social underclass. He has also suggested that the attention grills draw to the mouth is reflective of the importance in vocal dexterity in the African-American community, citing the importance of West African oral storytelling traditions, African-American orators, and trash talk among basketball players.

While early grills could not be removed easily and involved reshaping the tooth itself to fit the grill, grills are today made from custom dental molds. For more expensive grills, a dentist takes a mold of the wearer's front teeth with a quick set alginate. A tooth mold is obtained by filling the alginate negative with plaster, then the plaster is used to fit the grill to the unique set of teeth. However, for inexpensive novelty grills, a jeweler may make an impression by having the wearer bite into dental putty or wax softened in water, or the wearer may do this himself. Such grills may be less comfortable or dependable than grills that are professionally fitted, and in several instances jewelers manufacturing grills in this manner have been charged with practicing dentistry without a license.

According to the American Dental Association in June 2006, no studies have shown whether the long-term wearing of grills is safe. If the grills fit properly and are worn only intermittently, wearers are at a low risk for dental problems, according the ADA. The ADA has warned, however, that grills made from base metals could cause irritation or allergic reactions, and that bacteria trapped under a grill worn on a long-term basis could result in gum disease, cavities, or even bone loss. School districts in Alabama, Georgia, and Texas have banned grills for reasons both disciplinary and health-related.

Just as other hip hop fashion has been criticized, grills have been denounced by some commentators as expensive and ostentatious displays that strain the finances of poor youth.

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Art jewelry

Fameo Frog on the lily pad pendant made with multicolour sapphire cabochons, diamonds, gold and platinum.

Art jewelry is created with a variety of materials not just precious metals and gems. Art jewelry should be compared to expressions of art in other media such as glass, wood, plastics and clay. Art jewelry however has not yet created such a large following and is a relatively small niche, where jewelry is mostly bought by collectors and museums.

Though many consider art jewelry still part of crafts as opposed to real "Arts" (with its appropriate art critics) things are changing considerably, in particular in Germany. In the 1960s and 1970s the German Government and the commercial jewelry industry decided to foster and heavily support modern jewelry designers, and thus creating a new marketplace. They focused in particular on combined contemporary design with their goldsmithing tradition and jewelry making. At present art jewelry is no longer a niche market and many designers are sold in regular jewelry stores.

An example of current trends in art jewelry is the use of modern synthetic materials such as polypropylene, nylon and acrylic. Art jewelers have developed techniques for using these materials to dramatic effect. One example of this is award winning jeweler Gill Forsbrook a designer working in the UK. Further notable makers and artists include Hermann Jünger, Swiss-born Pierre Degen, Caroline Broadhead, Naomi Filmer, Otto Kuenzli and Florian Ladstaetter .

Fashion labels such as Bless, Martin Margiela, Comme des Garcons, etc have had a strong reference and input in the field of contemporary jewelry.

The American art jewelry scene has not gone through such a phase yet, but the number of collectors, and museums that exhibit (exclusive) art jewelry is growing constantly. The Smithsonian museum, Houston Natural History Museum, Carnegie regularly showcase pieces of contemporary (American) jewelry designers.

Some famous artists who created art jewelry in the past were Calder, Picasso, Man Ray, Meret Oppenheim, Dali and Nevelson. Some of which represented at Sculpture to Wear Gallery in New York City which closed in 1977.

Artwear Gallery owned by Robert Lee Morris continued in this endeavor to showcase jewelry as an art form.

A collection of art jewelry can be found at the Schmuckmuseum in Pforzheim Germany.

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Costume jewelry

Swatch Bijoux Jewelry

Costume jewelry (also called fashion jewelry, junk jewelry, fake jewelry, or fallalery) is the first jewelry manufactured as ornamentation for the masses to complement a particular fashionable garment or "costume". Costume jewelry came into being in the 1930s as a cheap, disposable accessory meant to be worn with a specific outfit. It was intended to be fashionable for a short period of time, outdate itself, and then be repurchased to fit with a new outfit or new fashion style. Its main use is in fashion, as opposed to "real" (fine) jewelry which may be regarded primarily as collectibles, keepsakes, or investments. Costume jewelry is made of less valuable materials including base metals, glass, plastic, and synthetic stones; in place of more valuable materials such as precious metals and gems.

The term costume jewelry dates back to the early twentieth century. It reflects the use of the word "costume" to refer to what is now called an "outfit"; for example, a "handsome street costume of maroon brown velvet". Costume jewelry is meant to compliment a particular fashionable garment or "costume"; Hence the name, "costume jewelry".

Originally, costume or fashion jewelry was made of inexpensive simulated gemstones, such as rhinestones or lucite, set in pewter,silver, nickel or brass. During the depression years, rhinestones were even down-graded by some manufacturers to meet the cost of production. Modern costume jewelry incorporates a wide range of materials. High end crystals, cubic zirconia simulated diamonds, and some semi-precious stones are used in place of precious stones. Metals include gold- or silver-plated brass, and sometimes vermeil or sterling silver. Lower-priced jewelry may still use gold plating over pewter, nickel or other metals; items made in countries outside the United States may contain lead. Some pieces incorporate plastic, acrylic, leather, or wood.

Costume jewelry can be characterized by the period in history in which it was made.

Costume jewelry has been part of culture for almost 300 years. During the 1700s cheap jewelry made with glass started getting made. After almost a century, in the 1800s, costume jewelry made of semi precious material came into the market. The use of semi precious material made the jewelry available in the hands of the common people. But the real golden era for the costume jewelry began in the middle of the twentieth century. The new middle class desired to own beautiful but affordable jewelry, and this desire was realized by its perfect timing: it came during the machine-age and the industrial revolution. All this made possible the production of carefully executed replicas of beautiful and admired heirloom pieces. As the class structure in America changed, so did measures of real wealth. Women in all social stations, even the working-class woman, could own a small piece of costume jewelry. The average town and country woman could acquire and wear a considerable amount of this mass-produced jewelry that was both affordable and stylish. Many feel that the machine has spoilt the beauty of the hand-made costume jewelry; the truth is that the machine has made fashion jewelry more affordable and has enabled people to produce enough of this jewelry to fuel the interest of millions of ladies from all around the world. Costume jewelry was further made popular by various designers in the mid twentieth century. Some of the most remembered names in costume jewelry include both the high and low priced brands: Crown Trifari, Dior, Chanel, Monet, Napier, Corocraft and Coventry. Coco Chanel greatly popularized the use of faux jewelry in her years as a fashion designer, bringing costume jewelry to life with gold and faux pearls. Kenneth Jay Lane has since the 1960s been known for creating unique pieces for Jackie Onassis, Elizabeth Taylor, Diana Vreeland, and Audrey Hepburn. He is probably best-known for his three-strand faux pearl necklace worn by Barbara Bush to her husband's inaugural ball. In many instances, high-end fashion jewelry has achieved a "collectible" status, and increases in value over time. Today, there is a substantial secondary market for vintage fashion jewelry.

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Etruscan jewelry

Ear-stud decorated with a rosette surrounded by concentric bands. Gold with vitreous glass paste insets, 530–480 BC. British Museum.

This article refers to the jewelry of the Etruscan civilization and its differences in various eras.

During the Villanovan Era, there was very little jewelry which has remained for discovery in modern times. The Villanovan Etruscans seem to have had left few items of luxury and thus appear modest. Yet Villanovan jewelry proves and confirms that in Etruria great effort was placed in the production of decorative arts. Jewelry was a status symbol and represented, like in present times, wealth and prosperity.

They used the same patterns as on their pottery. Swastikas, zigzags and triangles can be observed on their jewellery.

Gold jewelry started spreading rapidly during the Orientalizing era. It allowed a great deal more stylization and showed splendid workmanship. Geometric design was such a regular motif that archaeologists refer to this motif as the “Orientalizing geometric”.

The Orientalizing period was especially flourishing for Etruscan gold jewelry due to the very affluent trading system which had evolved during this time. The Etruscans did not invent their decorative techniques. Indeed, the Mediterranean influences had brought such techniques as granulation. Syro-Phoenician jewelers settled in southern Etruria and taught local apprentices the art of granulation and filigree.

These techniques first developed in the South of Etruria. It consisted of working designs onto a surface with tiny granules of gold. Care had to be taken not to melt the little granules onto the surface but instead, to solder them on with a tiny heated point. The various omissions and imperfections, made on purpose, gave the piece of jewelry the artistic character. Soldering was done using (most likely) arseniates and reducing the solder to an impalpable dust.

The Syro-Phoenicians brought in other techniques of workmanship. Many jewelers were influenced by their recurrent themes and symbols. Sacred emblems like the solar disc and the half moon were incorporated in the Etruscans’ fast-growing repertoire. Later Etruscans loosened up their very stern geometric standards and added in their designs floral and figurative elements of oriental inspiration. The finest jewellery was still mainly centered and focused in the southern city-states such as; Cerveteri, Tarquinia and Vetulonia.

Gorgons, pomegranates, acorns, lotus flowers and palms were a clear indicator of Greek influence in Etruscan jewelry. The modelling of heads, which was a typical practice from the Greek severe period, was a technique that spread throughout the Etruscan territory. An even clearer evidence of new influences is the shape introduced in the Orientalising era: The Bullae. A pear shaped vessel used to hold perfume. Its surface was usually decorated with repoussé and engraved symbolic figures.

Yet another leitmotiv in Etruscan Jewellery is the Egyptian Scarab. In ancient Egyptian cultures it symbolized luck. It increased in Vulci and Tarquinia from the last decades of the 6th century BC.

In the northern city-states however, jewelry was more sober and refined pieces from Vetrulonia, for example, are decorated with minute particles known as pulviscolo (gold dust).

Much of the jewelry found wasn’t worn by Etruscans, but were made to accompany them in the after world. Most, if not all, techniques of Etruscan goldsmiths were not invented by them as they are dated to the third millennium BC.

These practices came to them from the (at the time) distant Middle East, along with imported objects who inspired them to widen their range of jewelry. The Etruscans perfected these techniques, and in turn lead them to the very stylized jewelry of the seventh and sixth centuries. Often these pieces are considered the peak of their abilities.

Some etruscologists believe that the most complete form of acquired art was that of the Etruscan jewelers. Their technical accomplishments are astonishing. From the beginning, gold workers mastered the most sophisticated of techniques. They count amongst their acquired skills: hammering relief decoration otherwise known as repoussé, filigree and granulation. All of these methods were done using simple or basic tools.

Repoussé literally translated means to push back in French. The technique consists of hammering the design behind the ornament with the relief on the other style.

Granulation was the art of decorating smooth surfaces of gold jewelry with patterns composed of tiny granules of gold. It was invented in Mesopotamia in the third millennium BC and was subsequently introduced to Anatolia, Syria, Egypt, Cyprus and Mycenaean Greece. The collapse of the Bronze Age civilization brought with it the disappearance of such sophisticated arts in Greece, but they survived in the Near East and from there they were reintroduced in Greece in the ninth century and transferred to Italy during the second half of the eight century.

Filigree is a decorative open work made from thin twisted wire mainly in silver and gold but also in other type of metals.

The combination of metals was a basic technique. Essentially, there is no such thing as 24 carat gold jewelry. Massive gold is the most malleable metal. It is almost like wax. In order to have jewelry that can pass the test of time and gravity, the Etruscans had to combine their gold with other metals.

The most commonly used metal is copper in these cases. Most Etruscan jewelry is 18 karat gold but it varies - going as low as 15 karat. While pure gold is 24 karat, 18 and 15 karat gold benefit from their alloys. 18 karat gold is much more durable and harder than 24, and 15 karat is so much more durable and 'hard' than 18 karat. Some jewelry of the Regolini-Galassi tomb was too; thin, delicate and big to have been worn while more robust and less poutre gold ornamentation was solid enough to have been worn in life.

Etruscans would also mold their gold and jewels into stone-carved molds.

Among the jewelry found in tombs of the Archaic period were large disc earrings. The techniques here are difficult to define but they actually used granulation in concentric patterns. They also used filigree and glass paste. This was probably a trend of the time as they have been found in several tombs. The disc earring is originally a Lydian type of jewellery and became a fashionable trend during the archaic period with the strong East Greek influence spreading in the second half of the sixth century BCE.

Valise-type earrings were mostly made in Vulci and were very widespread. The heavy pendants started becoming fashionable along with the Middle Eastern floral elements and all the other types of influence the Etruscans received from elsewhere in the Mediterranean.

The fibulae became an item closer to jewelry in the archaic period. During the Villanovan era they were mainly bronze. Progressively though they turned into a subject of ornament.

Unfortunately the classical era was a period of crisis for the Etruscans. During the 5th century, Etruscan jewellery suffers a regression. Such techniques as filigree and granulation gradually disappeared. Others, like repoussé are used to decorate thin funerary bands, necklaces and lockets (or bullae). During this period, a different kind of earring comes into fashion: the grape cluster shaped earring. These kinds of earrings would cover the whole ear and sometimes hung down to the neck.

During the archaic period, "bigger was better". Large hanging earrings, long necklaces and heavy pendants or bullae were in style and worn by both men and woman alike. Woman, by modern standards started looking like "Christmas trees" as the fashion of the time was really large brooding figures. Women were excessively adorned and wore large diadems, bracelets and circlets, hair spirals, heavy earrings in the shape of grape clusters, large heavy pendants (also worn by men and children).

These were the fashion all throughout the fifth and fourth centuries. Necklaces were paired up. They would wear big necklaces with assorted beads, then another one with a big hanging pendant. Earrings with a long oval pendant and a smaller one hanging below were also very well received in the Etruscan community. In the early third century, bead necklaces and bullae remain popular as do torques, which were rings of colour hair (of an animal) or feathers around the neck. In the late classical era body jewelry became more and more popular as the fashions tended towards a progressive state of undress. The body jewelry was the adornment of the body and was paired with other artifacts such as shoes, holding mirrors, etc.

These styles stayed popular throughout the Hellenistic period as well as the Roman period. During the Hellenistic periods, technical decline and excessively complex shapes and decoration characterised the jewelry.

Jewelry becomes omnipresent during the Hellenistic period. It becomes unisex and is worn by people whether they are naked or dressed. In images, women were often represented with only slippers and a torque or necklace. The heavy necklaces of the classical era are now replaced by strands of beads and torques.

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Source : Wikipedia